Planting in the Border

PLANTING CONTAINER-GROWN SHRUBS, ROSES, TREES, PERENNIALS, ANNUALS AND BULBS IN YOUR GARDEN BORDER (PART 2)

Planting A Bare-Root Rose

Roses establish best if they are planted at the end of autumn or, in areas with cold winters, in early spring. It is important to plant as soon as possible after buying – most suppliers offer roses in late autumn and spring, so it is not too difficult to tie in your purchasing and planting times.

Before planting, check that the roots have not dried out and, if necessary, soak them in a bucket of water for a couple of hours. This will make the roots easier to spread out in the planting hole. Remove any that are badly damaged, withered, diseased, or dead. If any roots are much longer and thicker than the rest, prune these back by about one-third.

Prepare the planting hole as described for planting a container-grown shrub. Check that the graft union is placed at the correct depth (one inch above the soil surface in the South, and an inch or two below in the North) before backfilling with the planting mixture. Water well, then apply a mulch to an area just larger than the planting hole.

Planting Bare-Root Rose - Step 1 Remove weak or crossing shoots before planting. Before planting, use a sharp pair of pruners to cut out all straggly, crossing, diseased, damaged, or dead stems, ensuring that those remaining form a shape that is evenly balanced.

Planting Bare-Root Rose - Step 2 Hold the rose in the center of the hole with its roots well spread, and lay a stake across the hole to gauge the correct planting depth for your area. Backfill with soil and firm well.

Planting Bare-Root Rose - Step 3 Heeling In: If the ground is too wet or cold to plant immediately, heel in your new plants temporarily by planting them in a trench in a spare piece of ground. This keeps the roots moist and protected.

Planting and Staking A Tree

You may need to stake a large tree or shrub to keep it firmly in the ground and prevent windrock – this is best done at planting. A short stake is usually better than a longer one since it lets the tree move slightly in the wind so that trunk thickens well. Trees with very flexible stems may need a long stake.

Plant a tree as for a shrub, but drive the stake into the planting hole first. In windy areas, stake the tree on the windward side to prevent it from being blown too much in one direction. Once the tree has an adequate root system (usually after about two years), remove the stake. For trees with a long stake, saw off a portion reach year, removing it entirely in the third year.

Planting and Staking a Tree - Step 1 Drive a single stake into the hole just off center. Lay the pot on its side and slide it away from the root system. Spread out the roots to encourage them to grow into the planting mixture and so that it is easy to place the root ball close to the stake.

Planting and Staking a Tree - Step 2 Put the tree in the planting hole. Check that the level is correct using a stake laid across the top of the hole. Keep the trunk close to the stake and spread out the roots evenly. Backfill, firming as you fill the hole. Water in well.

Staking Methods Stakes can be used vertically or angled; angled ones can be added after planting. Use a buckle-and-spacer tie with the buckle away from the trunk to prevent chafing.

Planting A Balled-And-Burlapped Tree

Balled-and-burlapped trees can be planted in a similar way to container-grown trees, ideally in autumn or, failing this, spring. Balled-and-burlapped trees have fewer fine, fibrous roots than container-grown ones, so good, moist, and warm soil conditions are vital for success. Make a planting hole twice as wide as the root ball, larger if planting in clay. Place the tree in the hole, adjusting the depth if necessary, and remove the burlap or other wrapping. If you need a stake, drive it in before backfilling. Firm the soil around the tree in stages, checking the depth as you go. Water well and apply a 2-3 in (5-7 cm) mulch, keeping it clear of the tree’s trunk.

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